Ex-BDO Girl

Dear Reader, 

Of the life experiences I was exposed to during my tenure as BDO Aibawk, there were few things that have stood out that I want to share with you.

One, I used one gas cylinder for 13 months straight and it is still heavy. Once while I was in Champhai, one cylinder had lasted me 7 months and everyone who knew laughed at me for it. But this one lasted even longer.

Two, I participated in not one, not two but three elections while I held office; they took me away from office a bit longer than I’d have liked.

Three, we got two awards that I’m not sure how we got because we weren’t working towards any criteria. Perhaps a remnant of my predecessor’s. One was a little weird but we’ll take it. We got two.

Four, Cyclone Remal claimed five lives, several livestock, multiple houses and countless landslides, destroying crops and roads in its wake. If we were in pre-Christian days, we’d probably be sacrificing some large animal – a bovine or a swine probably – to appease some deity we didn’t know. I’d probably be heading the rituals. It really looked like Fury personified unleashed their anger on our hill range. Damn.

Five, in Samlukhai, I learned how to locate and check for aiawt, those bamboo thatched crab traps. Also found out in the process that it is illegal in Mizo customs to check someone’s aiawt. So don’t do as I did.

Six, again in Samlukhai, I learned how to identify and harvest bamboo shoots. This activity once more brought home to me how fortunate I am to be a salaried govt. employee because no way I am clever or strong or hard-working enough to survive on my skills and tenacity. I’d starve.

Seven, I learned how to make kurtai in Phulpui. This was very interesting because I had no idea how quickly and completely hmawngsawi turns into kurtai! If I may slip in a general advice here, if anyone asks you to make kurtai, turn up early. People work early to make kurtai!

Eight, I walked through the Sunflower fields of Sailam and my absolute faith in the majesty of sunflowers was redoubled.

Nine, I hoisted the National Flag twice in Aibawk. And received the salute in Sateek during Republic Day from the St Francis school contingents. That was a big deal. For me.

Ten, I attended Lo Zawh in Tachhip. That was a lot of fun.

Eleven, Sh. Kamlesh Pashwan, the Union Minister of State, Rural Development, Govt. of India was the last and most distinguished guest of the office during my tenure. He said the office and the area was really clean and tidy. He told me my staff was well-disciplined. He said our work was good. 

Twelve, I can’t remember the last time I’ve properly eaten roasted fresh butta with some syrupy sweet tea in the rain. I did that in the chayote gardens of Lamchhip. It was grand. 

Thirteen, some unseen being knocked on my door at 4AM one morning waking me up from my slumber. Spooky.

Fourteen, there were three births (all daughters) and two deaths (both men) among my staff during my tenure. Rather poignant.

Fifteen, a random man one day walked up to my quarters one day and asked me for glasses. As in spectacles. I was very confused. He said he’d lost his and asked if I had one for him. Quite aside from the optometrical issue, I remain confused if he was a bit mental or just drunk off his ass. This is quite aside from the fact too that he called me “ka pu”. Vanity took a nosedive! I was just happy I wasn’t wearing my glasses at the time or he might have asked me for it. And what could I have done? Give up the gift of sight? I don’t know.

Sixteen, come to think of it, I don’t know what it is about Aibawk RD Block but in the time I was here, I got deliberately called Sir, as in short for Officer by the VCP of Lungsei. This has both amused and delighted me and my staff. I don’t mind it. I rather like it. 

Seventeen, Aibawk has never had a female BDO so I guess there’s something there in as far as the gender confusion I faced.

Anyhoo. I joined office on May 26th, 2023 and left on August 12th, 2024. It was not a long stay. But it was a lot. Some good, some bad. As always, there are people who I have come to count as good friends, and perhaps even as non-blood family. There have also been people who have been excited and happy to see the back of me. It’s all right. I am warmed by the kind people who get outraged on my behalf. It’s like I always say: you can’t make an omelette without breaking a few eggs. You have to learn to appreciate the good and accept the bad. You just have to let the good outweigh the bad.

So Long, Aibawk. Till we meet again.

Aibawk Through My Eyes

For a hobbit adventure from Aizawl, Aibawk RD Block is pretty ideal. Start your engines, pack a light bag, a nice camera and a few tucks and you’re good. The RD block itself starts at Hualngohmun, only about 10 kms from Aizawl. The last stops would be Sailam, Sialsuk, Lungsei, Chawilung to the South depending on what roads you take. The area is rife with places of interest that would tempt the merry traveler. You can get a feel of legend, history and geography, taking Instagram worthy pictures and be the envy of friends and family, all the while creating special moments that could last a lifetime.

The general area around Tachhip, Phulpui, Maubuang are the hills which had been the Elysium of the legendary lovers of Mizo folktales – Zawlpala and Tualvungi, their stories embedded in the very land. You have Va Ko Peng and Tualvungi Sangha Khawina, Zawlpala Thlantlang and Tualvungi Vawkthleng. I don’t know if Lalruanga the Sorcerer was a great traveler because I saw some of his shit in Champhai as well but even here, in Sumsuih, you have Lalruanga Lungdah. Come to think of it, Sumsuih also has Thangzawra Lunglen Tlang which I suppose you can visit when you want to cry in solidarity over unfortunate unfulfilled romances in your lives. You also have Chhura Fa Rep; I don’t know if that interests you.

As far as actual history goes, you can visit Sibuta Lung at Tachhip, which marks the memory of the ‘cruelest’ chiefs in Mizo history. Chief-wise, you can visit Maubuang as well, the kingdom of Khawvelthanga, the first of the Mizo chiefs to abolish slavery in 1910. And my grandmother’s father. Tachhip-wise, you can also visit Chhingpuii Lu Khaina which is morbid and gory, but when you have head-hunting in your cultural history, I suppose it is apt. Oh and Chief-wise, you can also visit Sailam which deserves its own para, I think.

So, Sailam. In 1871, Mary Winchester was captured and held hostage at Sailam, then under the Chieftainship of Bengkhuaia. Her retrieval in 1872 marked the beginning of British rule in Mizoram. This historic event has essentially kick-started the genesis of modern civilization in Mizoram. The perfume of history is strong there. Actually, you really should visit Sailam and give it an entire day. History aside, you can do bird-watching and even spend the night there camped out in the open or at Birders’ Cottage. Or check out their sunflower fields (April and October best seasons probably). Or their Orange Orchards. Or their Sarovar; gorgeous lake! But don’t go during monsoon because leeches. Or visit the many houses (most households of Sailam) where people weave Puanchei; beautiful artistry and amazing culture having been nurtured through apprenticeship. Or check out Rophum Tlang where you can view Phawngpui Tlang, the highest peak of Mizoram. Or simply carry a picnic basket and spend it on the meadows. Good way to spend the day.

In Sumsuih, there is a Commemoration Stone Kumpinu Lungphun erected for King George V of Great Britain, then Emperor of India. Even though the dates may not be entirely historically accurate, this is a fascinating bit of history and the influence of British India in Mizoram. In Falkawn (15kms approx. from Aizawl), you can turn back time and visit Zokhua and experience for yourself the set-up of an old Mizo village. Also good medical facilities at Mizoram's only medical college ZMC.

If you travel the ATL Rd., I’m sure you’d see the commemoration marker where the Tropic of Cancer passes through Maubuang Lungsai village. Good photo-op that will make for bragging rights at a party! 

Ooh, before I forget - there is a local cyclical wind called Chalkhan Thli that originates somewhere in R. Mat. From there, it makes its way to R. Lau and wanders over to Reiek Peak and back to Sailam in the evening, which has resulted in the locals saying it visits Reiek maidens during the day. Chal being a type of light-weight, thin bamboo, at Hmuifang’s Chal Kham, it was once the local amusement to throw chal down the cliff and watch the wind pick it up and deposit it back to the peak. Today you can throw an open umbrella down and the wind will pick it up. Maybe try it with your most disposable umbrella though?

If you travel this route, you’ll find a number of beautiful scenes that will take your breath away. People are already pretty familiar with joyrides and picnics at Hmuifang Tlang (1619m; highest point in the RD block) (track recommendation: Sweet Caroline by Neil Diamond) and Sialsuk. But I’ve curated more camera-ready places for the digital world for your ease of travel planning:

Trees-wise, you have Lianphunga Bung at Sateek, Zathawma Bung at Samlukhai, and Sangkungi Bung at Sailam (she’s the sister of Bengkhuaia, FYI).

Meadows-wise, we got Hmunhlui Tlang at Thiak, Phulpui Mual at Phulpui, Sialsuk Tlang at Sialsuk, and Sailam Phul at Sailam. In fact, the general slope along Chamring-Lamchhip-Chawilung is gentler and can be loads of fun. Also insanely picturesque.

Waterfall-wise, there is Rangtla Li at Tuirivang, Phulpui. It’s this beautiful natural waterfall that rests on a giant basin. NB: This waterfall rests on rocks that have craters of different sizes and different depths. While extraordinarily beautiful, I’d advise the traveler to not venture into the waters that can sometimes be treacherous and trap even the most agile and experienced swimmers.

Brook-wise, you have tons of options although don’t litter and destroy the general beauty. But there’s R. Changte, R.Tuisik, R.Paikhai… gentle streams and so pretty! Sialsuk also has Dilpui I & II; you might have heard of it from their fishing sports. You can do plastic boating there well-equipped with life-jackets; it’s tons of fun.

Otherwise, there’s Kelpuk and Lungpher Sei at Maubuang; I’ve yet to visit these myself. I bet they’re cool too.

I think the best time to visit would be starting from October well on through April. That’s when Mizoram is prettiest anyway.

For you when you come on your nice, easy Hobbit adventure in this hill range, I’ve listed these places for you so it’s easier for you to plan your time. Cheers!

Places to fuel up:

1. Melriat

2. Hmuifang

3. Sialsuk

Lodging:

Tourist Lodges at:

1. Aibawk

2. Hmuifang (Tourist resort)

3. Sialsuk 

PWD IB at:

1. Aibawk

2. Sialsuk

Others:

1. Lodging run by Sialsuk Tlang Committee 

Private-run Places to eat/lodge:

1. Tachhip:

i. Thelma restaurant

ii. 2 Sister restaurant

iii. Fel Fel restaurant

2. Aibawk:

i. Amawii hotel-cum-restaurant

ii. Mabiaki hotel-cum-restaurant

iii. Achawii hotel-cum-restaurant

iv. Pi Lalkhumi restaurant

v. Chanchinmawii restaurant

vi. Rebeki restaurant

vii. Matluangi restaurant 

3. Sialsuk

i. R.K. restaurant

ii. 3 Sister restaurant

iii. VL restaurant

iv. Omom restaurant

v. Ruati restaurant

vi. 2 Sister restaurant

vii. NR restaurant

viii. Dingpuii restaurant

ix. Achhingi restaurant

x. Taverna restaurant

xi. Chakkhai restaurant

xii. Rhino restaurant

xiii. Chalhmingi restaurant

xiv. Tuichangral restaurant

4. Thiak

i. Liankaia restaurant

ii. K Lalrinliana restaurant

5. Chawilung

i. Chhungpuii restaurant

6. Muallungthu

i. Felfel thingpui dawr

ii. Zothanpuii restaurant

iii. K&B restaurant

iv. Vensang restaurant

v. Lawmi restaurant

7. Hualngohmun:

i. Chawngthu hotel-cum-restaurant

ii. Chamtei chicken grills restaurant

iii. Vanngian restaurant

iv. Pachuau restaurant

v. Nung Nung restaurant

8. Melriat:

i. Adeline restaurant

ii. Brigit restaurant

*I'm sharing with you my drawing superimposed on the block map when I first joined as BDO here in May 26, 2023. For my own study. It's not accurate by any means but I'm very fond of it and it makes picturing the block easier.