Problems

I think about it often and I’ve come to believe that if you want to rule over a people, you have to create a problem first, a solution to which only you can offer, and then offer it to them at a price.

It works like a charm, albeit you need to be a little charming to pull it off.

If you’re in government service in Mizoram working in rural areas or really anywhere outside of Aizawl town, I feel like at least one time this thought would have crossed your mind: that we should have less villages than what we have now.

It’s not a feasible solution unless you want a revolution on your hands. People are attached to land in a way that they aren’t to anything else. We are very concerned about where we get buried, sometimes even more so than where we live. Recalling a nice philosophical tangent of heaven here and now versus heaven in the afterlife, but that’s a topic for another day.

846 villages spread across 11 districts, where some villages only have 20 households. Twenty! It would be a different story if they were big producers of some item and they don’t really need the government. Like Liechtenstein which is tiny, land-locked and didn’t even have its own Post Office till 2000 and even now only has one prison, but is also the world’s leading producer of dental products. If Liechtenstein wants to have multiple tiny villages with tiny population, they can afford to!

But not Mizoram, not today.

See there’re so many problems today that could completely have been non-problems. If we had lesser villages but concentrated population in bigger geographical areas, a lot of the problems we have now would automatically be fixed and a number of systems would fall in place. 

Take education, for example. India cares for its citizens, especially kids. So we need to have primary schools accessible for children within a 1 km radius. When the population is spread so thinly, but you still need these schools, and yet you can’t increase fund flow, it follows that the schools that do exist are under-staffed, under-funded and under-developed. It is a zero sum game. It can’t work another way.

Following from this, even the high literacy rate we have in Mizoram does not seem to translate into everyday empowerment. We still allow ourselves to be ripped off by every smooth-talking salesman that crosses our paths. Sometimes in my most cynical moments, I believe that the only reason we have such high literacy rate is because we are Christians and we need to read the Bible and the hymnals. We don’t seem to use the skill for much else. 

We don’t even use education to think to put things in writing to secure our stance. Or to ensure that opposing parties remain trustworthy. Even in finance, the low level of financial literacy as operates in the state is something that will ensure that your flabber is properly gasted.

We don’t like to exercise our mental faculties and instead choose to wallow in poverty of the mind. Even our theology is centred in the pious suffering and pain of Good Friday and not even nearly enough in the buoyant joy of Easter. Because while Good Friday is passive acceptance of a sacrifice someone made for us, Easter demands that we live and to live means we engage with the world we live in, which also essentially brings with it problem-solving. We would always choose to dream of Pialral or Vanram where problems are absent rather than play an active part in the Here-and-Now where we set about finding solutions to the problems we have.

I suppose the crux of this blog is an epiphany that we are content to be passive in our approach to life. We will take what comes, complain if things get rough, rough it if we must, but to actively engage in a solution-finding mission for its own sake isn’t innately in us. If we have always been this way or whether someone realised this about us and employed it as a means to keep us under all this time, and everyone else also just maintained the status quo, I don’t know.

But I think we willingly keep paying the price to keep us chained.

Muttons and Cakes

People make them wrong.

I hope I am not a snob when it comes to many things. Like luxury brands. Or cultural elements. Or occupations. But forgive me for this slight on my character (which is maybe why I haven’t been canonized yet because otherwise I am basically a saint) but I am a snob when it comes to dessert and randomly, mutton curry.

I blame Delhi for this.

In Delhi, I ate a lot of dessert items. They were wonderful. Defence Colony, Greater Kailash and Connaught Place mostly. Now more people who have travelled wider and experienced more than me would have more to say on the culinary arts of baked goods, but for me, Delhi was it. But it was a good it. As far as I know.

I talk here about tiramisu, opera pastries, black forest cakes, cheesecakes and red velvet cakes. 

When I returned home, I found there were a few people in Mizoram who made wonderful cheesecakes that could even compete, on good days, with The Big Chill. Otherwise? People just don’t make my favourite cakes well in Mizoram. Not consistently, at least. Vanilla based cakes they manage quite well and I love some of them, definitely. But with chocolate, something is always missing. It’s too heavy, or too dry, or too sweet, or the moist-ness is wrong, or the cherry is less (with blackforest), or something. It’s always not-quite-right.

There was The Twisted Sisters in Aizawl who made amazing bombolinis. Now that could compete with Dunkin Donuts, no problem, and emerge on top. What a winner! Do they still make it? Or KT Bakery in Lunglei who make heavenly rum balls. I’d happily rake up my calorie intake for those bad boys. 

See this is the thing about calories when you get older. Your metabolism isn’t as good as when you were seventeen. So if you risk fat for something, let it be worth it. There’s no point eating sub-par food and gaining weight and all its accompanying health concerns. The moment on the lips should be worth the forever on the hips. YOLO.

With mutton, I don’t have a lot to say. Good mutton curry should be cooked well and tearing apart with the tenderest touch. It should be seasoned well and not just a masala dump. If it has potatoes in it, the aloo should never overpower it. The general colour should be more a deep red (more soy-sauce-y) than haldi-esque. It should smell clean and subtle, and not heavy and overwhelmingly spice-laden that you can’t even smell the distinct aroma of the meat.

See I’m not snobbish about most food, even fast food, not even with the rubbish chow and momo we sometimes get in Mizoram. Even when the boiled egg is sweating beads because it was just pulled out of a fridge on a hot day. Even when the samosa in the little village is so ginger-and-red-chilli hot that I start sweating. I appreciate people who make food and I usually just eat what I eat and if I don’t like it, quietly not eat. I don’t usually judge food and their makers. So I don’t know why I am this way with cakes and mutton. But it is what it is. I remain very snobbish about mutton and cakes.

And books too, maybe. If your favourite Indian author is Chetan Bhagat, I’m sorry but I judge you.

Aibawk Through My Eyes

For a hobbit adventure from Aizawl, Aibawk RD Block is pretty ideal. Start your engines, pack a light bag, a nice camera and a few tucks and you’re good. The RD block itself starts at Hualngohmun, only about 10 kms from Aizawl. The last stops would be Sailam, Sialsuk, Lungsei, Chawilung to the South depending on what roads you take. The area is rife with places of interest that would tempt the merry traveler. You can get a feel of legend, history and geography, taking Instagram worthy pictures and be the envy of friends and family, all the while creating special moments that could last a lifetime.

The general area around Tachhip, Phulpui, Maubuang are the hills which had been the Elysium of the legendary lovers of Mizo folktales – Zawlpala and Tualvungi, their stories embedded in the very land. You have Va Ko Peng and Tualvungi Sangha Khawina, Zawlpala Thlantlang and Tualvungi Vawkthleng. I don’t know if Lalruanga the Sorcerer was a great traveler because I saw some of his shit in Champhai as well but even here, in Sumsuih, you have Lalruanga Lungdah. Come to think of it, Sumsuih also has Thangzawra Lunglen Tlang which I suppose you can visit when you want to cry in solidarity over unfortunate unfulfilled romances in your lives. You also have Chhura Fa Rep; I don’t know if that interests you.

As far as actual history goes, you can visit Sibuta Lung at Tachhip, which marks the memory of the ‘cruelest’ chiefs in Mizo history. Chief-wise, you can visit Maubuang as well, the kingdom of Khawvelthanga, the first of the Mizo chiefs to abolish slavery in 1910. And my grandmother’s father. Tachhip-wise, you can also visit Chhingpuii Lu Khaina which is morbid and gory, but when you have head-hunting in your cultural history, I suppose it is apt. Oh and Chief-wise, you can also visit Sailam which deserves its own para, I think.

So, Sailam. In 1871, Mary Winchester was captured and held hostage at Sailam, then under the Chieftainship of Bengkhuaia. Her retrieval in 1872 marked the beginning of British rule in Mizoram. This historic event has essentially kick-started the genesis of modern civilization in Mizoram. The perfume of history is strong there. Actually, you really should visit Sailam and give it an entire day. History aside, you can do bird-watching and even spend the night there camped out in the open or at Birders’ Cottage. Or check out their sunflower fields (April and October best seasons probably). Or their Orange Orchards. Or their Sarovar; gorgeous lake! But don’t go during monsoon because leeches. Or visit the many houses (most households of Sailam) where people weave Puanchei; beautiful artistry and amazing culture having been nurtured through apprenticeship. Or check out Rophum Tlang where you can view Phawngpui Tlang, the highest peak of Mizoram. Or simply carry a picnic basket and spend it on the meadows. Good way to spend the day.

In Sumsuih, there is a Commemoration Stone Kumpinu Lungphun erected for King George V of Great Britain, then Emperor of India. Even though the dates may not be entirely historically accurate, this is a fascinating bit of history and the influence of British India in Mizoram. In Falkawn (15kms approx. from Aizawl), you can turn back time and visit Zokhua and experience for yourself the set-up of an old Mizo village. Also good medical facilities at Mizoram's only medical college ZMC.

If you travel the ATL Rd., I’m sure you’d see the commemoration marker where the Tropic of Cancer passes through Maubuang Lungsai village. Good photo-op that will make for bragging rights at a party! 

Ooh, before I forget - there is a local cyclical wind called Chalkhan Thli that originates somewhere in R. Mat. From there, it makes its way to R. Lau and wanders over to Reiek Peak and back to Sailam in the evening, which has resulted in the locals saying it visits Reiek maidens during the day. Chal being a type of light-weight, thin bamboo, at Hmuifang’s Chal Kham, it was once the local amusement to throw chal down the cliff and watch the wind pick it up and deposit it back to the peak. Today you can throw an open umbrella down and the wind will pick it up. Maybe try it with your most disposable umbrella though?

If you travel this route, you’ll find a number of beautiful scenes that will take your breath away. People are already pretty familiar with joyrides and picnics at Hmuifang Tlang (1619m; highest point in the RD block) (track recommendation: Sweet Caroline by Neil Diamond) and Sialsuk. But I’ve curated more camera-ready places for the digital world for your ease of travel planning:

Trees-wise, you have Lianphunga Bung at Sateek, Zathawma Bung at Samlukhai, and Sangkungi Bung at Sailam (she’s the sister of Bengkhuaia, FYI).

Meadows-wise, we got Hmunhlui Tlang at Thiak, Phulpui Mual at Phulpui, Sialsuk Tlang at Sialsuk, and Sailam Phul at Sailam. In fact, the general slope along Chamring-Lamchhip-Chawilung is gentler and can be loads of fun. Also insanely picturesque.

Waterfall-wise, there is Rangtla Li at Tuirivang, Phulpui. It’s this beautiful natural waterfall that rests on a giant basin. NB: This waterfall rests on rocks that have craters of different sizes and different depths. While extraordinarily beautiful, I’d advise the traveler to not venture into the waters that can sometimes be treacherous and trap even the most agile and experienced swimmers.

Brook-wise, you have tons of options although don’t litter and destroy the general beauty. But there’s R. Changte, R.Tuisik, R.Paikhai… gentle streams and so pretty! Sialsuk also has Dilpui I & II; you might have heard of it from their fishing sports. You can do plastic boating there well-equipped with life-jackets; it’s tons of fun.

Otherwise, there’s Kelpuk and Lungpher Sei at Maubuang; I’ve yet to visit these myself. I bet they’re cool too.

I think the best time to visit would be starting from October well on through April. That’s when Mizoram is prettiest anyway.

For you when you come on your nice, easy Hobbit adventure in this hill range, I’ve listed these places for you so it’s easier for you to plan your time. Cheers!

Places to fuel up:

1. Melriat

2. Hmuifang

3. Sialsuk

Lodging:

Tourist Lodges at:

1. Aibawk

2. Hmuifang (Tourist resort)

3. Sialsuk 

PWD IB at:

1. Aibawk

2. Sialsuk

Others:

1. Lodging run by Sialsuk Tlang Committee 

Private-run Places to eat/lodge:

1. Tachhip:

i. Thelma restaurant

ii. 2 Sister restaurant

iii. Fel Fel restaurant

2. Aibawk:

i. Amawii hotel-cum-restaurant

ii. Mabiaki hotel-cum-restaurant

iii. Achawii hotel-cum-restaurant

iv. Pi Lalkhumi restaurant

v. Chanchinmawii restaurant

vi. Rebeki restaurant

vii. Matluangi restaurant 

3. Sialsuk

i. R.K. restaurant

ii. 3 Sister restaurant

iii. VL restaurant

iv. Omom restaurant

v. Ruati restaurant

vi. 2 Sister restaurant

vii. NR restaurant

viii. Dingpuii restaurant

ix. Achhingi restaurant

x. Taverna restaurant

xi. Chakkhai restaurant

xii. Rhino restaurant

xiii. Chalhmingi restaurant

xiv. Tuichangral restaurant

4. Thiak

i. Liankaia restaurant

ii. K Lalrinliana restaurant

5. Chawilung

i. Chhungpuii restaurant

6. Muallungthu

i. Felfel thingpui dawr

ii. Zothanpuii restaurant

iii. K&B restaurant

iv. Vensang restaurant

v. Lawmi restaurant

7. Hualngohmun:

i. Chawngthu hotel-cum-restaurant

ii. Chamtei chicken grills restaurant

iii. Vanngian restaurant

iv. Pachuau restaurant

v. Nung Nung restaurant

8. Melriat:

i. Adeline restaurant

ii. Brigit restaurant

*I'm sharing with you my drawing superimposed on the block map when I first joined as BDO here in May 26, 2023. For my own study. It's not accurate by any means but I'm very fond of it and it makes picturing the block easier.